Negombo is a modest beach town located just 10km from Bandaranaike
International Airport. With a stash of decent hotels and restaurants to suit all
pockets, a friendly local community, an interesting old quarter and a reasonable
(though somewhat polluted) beach, Negombo is a much easier place to find your
Sri Lankan feet than Colombo. The Dutch captured the town from the Portuguese in 1640, lost it, and then
captured it again in 1644. The British then took it from them in 1796 without a
struggle. Negombo was one of the most important sources of cinnamon during
the Dutch era, and there are still reminders of the European colonial days. The busy center of Negombo town lies to the west of the bus and train stations. Most places to stay, however, line the main road that heads north from the town
centre, with the beachside hotel strip starting about 2km north of town. Dutch Fort
Close to the seafront near the lagoon mouth are the ruins of the old Dutch fort, which has a fine gateway inscribed with the date 1678. Also here is a green, called the Esplanade, where cricket matches are a big attraction. As the fort
grounds are now occupied by the town’s prison, the only way you’ll get a peek
inside is by committing a serious crime. You’d need to be very interested in old
Dutch architecture to go to such lengths.

• Negombo Beach

Even though it could never compete in a beauty contest against many Sri Lankan
beaches, Negombo’s beach, which stretches north from the town right along the
hotel strip before fading into a palm-tree distance, is pleasant enough and makes
for a good sunset stroll. The water does have a distinct brown colour thanks to
estuary run-off and pollution, but it’s no longer bad enough to stop people
swimming. Foreign tourists can normally access the beach in front of most big hotels even if
you’re not staying (act rich and confident), but for a more colourful (and noisier)
scene join the locals at what is known as Negombo Beach Park.

• Hamilton Canal

The Dutch showed their love of canals here like nowhere else in Sri Lanka. Canals
extend from Negombo all the way south to Colombo and north to Puttalam, a
total distance of over 120km. You can hire a bicycle in Negombo from various
hotels and ride the canal-side paths of the Hamilton Canal, enjoying picturesque
views and small villages along the way.

• Negombo Beach Park

Foreign tourists can normally access the beach in front of most big hotels even if
you’re not staying, but for a more colourful (and noisier) scene join the locals at
this municipal beach.

• Main Fish Market

Each day, fishers take their oruvas (outrigger canoes) and go out in search of the
fish for which Negombo is famous. They’re a fine sight as they sweep home into
the lagoon after a fishing trip. Fish auctions on the beach and sales at the fish
market near the fort are a slippery and smelly affair, but one that’s well worth
forgoing some pool time for. The catch is not all from the open sea: Negombo is at the northern end of a
lagoon that is renowned for its lobsters, crabs and prawns. Across the lagoon
bridge there’s a second fish market. If you can stagger out of bed at 6am, it’s a
good place to watch much bigger fishing boats return with their catches.

• Angurukaramulla Temple

East of the town centre the Angurukaramulla Temple, with its 6m-long reclining
Buddha, is worth seeing; take a three-wheeler for around Rs 200.

• St Mary’s Church

The fading pink chamber of St Mary’s Church, in the town centre, has some
thunderous religious ceiling paintings covering the nave.

• Duwa

Joined to Negombo by the lagoon bridge, Duwa is famed for its Easter passion

play.