Rising dramatically from the central plains, the enigmatic rocky outcrop of
Sigiriya is perhaps Sri Lanka’s single most dramatic sight. Near-vertical walls
soar to a flat-topped summit that contains the ruins of an ancient civilization, thought to once have been the epicenter of the short-lived kingdom of Kassapa, and there are spellbinding vistas across mist-wrapped forests in the early
morning. Sigiriya refuses to reveal its secrets easily, and you’ll have to climb a series of
vertiginous staircases attached to sheer walls to reach the top. On the way you’ll
pass a series of quite remarkable frescoes and a pair of colossal lion’s paws
carved into the bedrock. The surrounding landscape – lily-pad-covered moats, water gardens and cave shrines – only add to Sigiriya’s rock-star appeal.

• Royal Gardens

The base of the Sigiriya rock is a beautifully landscaped area dotted with formal
water features, terraced gardens and natural boulders that were once home to
numerous Buddhist shrines. It’s a beautiful place to explore away from the
crowds. From the main entrance you pass a series of symmetrical water gardens, which
extend to the foot of the rock and include bathing pools, little islands with
pavilions that were used as dry-season palaces, and landscaped borders. A series of steps continues up through terraced gardens to the western face of
the rock, and then ascends it steeply. The charming boulder gardens, closer to the rock itself and best seen on the
descent from the rock, feature boulders that once formed the bases of monastery
buildings. The step-like depressions in the sides of the boulders were the
foundations of brick walls and timber columns. The cistern and audience-hall
rocks are impressive, and the entire area is fun to explore.

•  Lion’s Paws

At the northern end of the rock, a narrow pathway emerges on to the large
platform from which the site derives its name – Sigiriya (from sinha-giri) means
‘Lion Rock’. HCP Bell, the British archaeologist responsible for an enormous
amount of archaeology in Sri Lanka, found the two enormous lion paws when
excavating here in 1898. At one time a gigantic brick lion sat at this end of the rock, and the final ascent to
the top commenced with a stairway that led between the lion’s paws and into its
mouth. The lion symbolism serves as a reminder to devotees ascending the rock
that Buddha was Sakya-Sinha (Lion of the Sakya Clan) and that the truths he
spoke of were as powerful as the sound of a lion’s roar. The 5th-century lion has since disappeared, apart from the first steps and the
paws. Reaching the top means clambering up across a series of metal stairs, but
you can still see the original grooves and steps cut into the rock.

•  Pidurangula

This prominent rock about 1km north of the Sigiriya site, offers amazing views of
Sigiriya from its wide summit. It’s a 20-minute hike up to the top, past several
small temples, a 12.5m reclining Buddha and a final tricky scramble over
boulders. Most people come at sunset (bring a torch for the trip down) but a
sunrise visit is equally beautiful and much less crowded. A return three-wheeler
costs around Rs 700, including waiting time.

•  Frescoes

Halfway up the Sigiriya rock an open-air spiral stairway leads to a long, sheltered
gallery in the sheer rock face. The paintings of the buxom, wasp-waisted women
are popularly believed to represent either apsaras (celestial nymphs) or King
Kasyapa’s concubines. Protected from the sun in the sheltered gallery, the
frescoes remain in remarkably good condition, their colours still glowing. Modern theory suggests the female forms represent aspects of Tara – a
bodhisattva and one of the most important figures in Tantric Buddhism. They are
similar in style to the rock paintings at Ajanta in India, but have a specific
character in their classical realist style. No one knows the exact dates of the
impressive frescoes, though it’s unlikely they date as far back as the 5th century
(when King Kasyapa reigned). The paintings are at their best in the late-afternoon light. Photos are not allowed.

• Sigiriya Museum

This decent museum has a fine diorama of the site, providing an excellent
overview and explaining Sigiriya’s cultural importance beyond the obvious
natural beauty. The theory that Sigiriya was a Buddhist monastery is given here, although the established position that it was a palace or fortress prevails. Trade
routes are explained, showing Sigiriya’s connections with the Gulf, China, India
and the Roman Empire. Look for the wonderful black-and-white photos of British archaeologist HCP Bell
and his somewhat reluctant family exploring the site soon after its rediscovery. The museum is near the main ticket booth. No photographs are permitted inside.

• Cobra Hood Cave

This rocky projection down in the Boulder Garden earned its name because the
overhang resembles a fully opened cobra’s hood. The plastered interior of the
cave was once embellished with floral and animal paintings; a couple of faint
traces remain. Generally, you pass by this cave after descending the rock on your
way to the south gate and the car park. Below the drip ledge is an inscription from the 2nd century BC that indicates it belonged to Chief Naguli, who donated it to a monk

•  Dakinigiriya Vihara

Hire a bike and head out to this little-visited ruined monastery. Trails take you
past a stupa, the standing monolithic stones of a prayer hall, several rock
inscriptions and caves, a small tank and many fabulous trees. It’ll likely be only
you and the monkeys