The ruins of Anuradhapura are one of South Asia’s most evocative sights. The
sprawling complex contains a rich collection of archaeological and architectural
wonders: enormous dagobas (brick stupas), ancient pools and crumbling
temples, built during Anuradhapura’s thousand years of rule over Sri Lanka.
Today, several of the sites remain in use as holy places and temples; frequent
ceremonies give Anuradhapura a vibrancy that’s a sharp contrast to the
museum-like ambience at Polonnaruwa.
Current-day Anuradhapura is a pleasant albeit sprawling city; a small town that
feels more like a large village. There’s loads of good budget accommodation, easy
bike hire and a relaxed pace, making it a good place to spend an extra day.

• Abhayagiri Dagoba

Dating back to the 1st century BC, this colossal dagoba was the ceremonial focus
of the 5000-strong Abhayagiri Monastery. Originally over 100m high, it was one
of the greatest structures in the ancient world, its scale only matched by the
pyramids of Giza (and nearby Jetavanarama). Today, after several
reconstructions, Abhayagiri Dagoba soars 75m above the forest floor. Visually,
it’s stunning, and your first glimpse of this brick monument through a gap in the
surrounding forest is breathtaking.
The name means ‘Hill of Protection’ or ‘Fearless Hill’. The Saddarma
Rathnawaliya scripture records that a statue of a golden bull containing relics of
the Buddha was buried in the core of the stupa.
Abhayagiri Dagoba has some interesting bas-reliefs, including one near the
western stairway of an elephant pulling up a tree. A large slab with a Buddha
footprint can be seen on the northern side, and the eastern and western steps
have unusual moonstones made from concentric stone slabs (the word
‘moonstone’ relates to the shape of the stone, not the type of stone itself).
As you walk around the northern side of the stupa, look for the
octagonal yupa (spire) and shaft that originally topped the dagoba before the
current square top was added.

•  Anuradhapura World Heritage Site

The ruins of Anuradhapura are one of South Asia’s most evocative sights. The
sprawling complex contains a rich collection of archaeological and architectural
wonders: enormous dagobas (brick stupas), ancient pools and crumbling
temples, built during Anuradhapura’s thousand years as capital of Sri Lanka.

•  Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba

This magnificent white dagoba is guarded by a wall with a frieze of 344
elephants standing shoulder to shoulder. Apart from a few beside the western
entrance, most are modern replacements of the originals from 140 BC. Today,
after incurring much damage from invading Indian forces, it rises 55m,
considerably less than its original height; nor is its form the same as the earlier
‘bubble’ shape.
During the dagoba’s consecration, a portion of Buddha’s ashes were allegedly
enshrined here, in a grand ceremony attended by monks from Rajagriha, Vaishali,
Patna, Kashmir and Afghanistan. At the time, it was the biggest stupa in the
world, with a 7m-deep foundation made of limestone broken with hammers and
then crushed by elephants.
Ruvanvelisaya was commissioned by King Dutugemunu, but he didn’t live to see
its completion. However, as he lay on his deathbed, a false bamboo-and-cloth
finish was placed around the dagoba so that Dutugemunu’s final sight could be of
his ‘completed’ masterpiece. A limestone statue in a small pavilion south of the
great dagoba is popularly thought to be of Dutugemunu.
The land around the dagoba is dotted with the remains of ponds and pools, and
collections of columns and pillars, all picturesquely leaning in different
directions. Slightly southeast of the dagoba, en route to the Sri Maha Bodhi
Temple, you can see one of Anuradhapura’s many monks’ refectories.

•  Sri Maha Bodhi

The sacred bodhi tree is central to Anuradhapura in both a spiritual and physical
sense. It was grown from a cutting brought from Bodhgaya in India and is said to
be the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world, tended by an
uninterrupted succession of guardians for over 2000 years. Today thousands of
devotees come to make offerings, particularly on poya (full moon) days and
weekends. Sunset is a magical time to visit.
The faithful believe it was Princess Sangamitta, daughter of the Indian Emperor
Ashoka and sister of Mahinda (who introduced Buddhism to Sri Lanka), who
brought the cutting from India. These days there is not one but many bodhi trees
here; the oldest and holiest stands on the top platform. Railing and other
structures around the trees are festooned with prayer flags.
In 1985, during the civil war, Tamil Tigers opened fire in the enclosure, killing
several worshippers as part of a larger offensive that took the lives of almost 150
civilians.
April and December are particularly busy months as pilgrims converge on the
site for snana puja (offerings or prayers).

• Isurumuniya Vihara

This charming rock temple, dating from the reign of Devanampiya Tissa (r 307–
267 BC), is set around a lovely lotus pond, the corner of which is carved with
images of elephants playfully splashing water. The central temple has some
particularly fine mural paintings. Climb around the back to the rock summit to
see the bell-shaped stupa and a pair of Buddha footprints etched into the rock.
The small museum features the famous ‘lovers’ sculpture, which dates from
around the 5th century AD and is carved in the artistic style of the Indian Gupta
dynasty of the 4th and 5th centuries. Photos are tolerated, despite signs to the
contrary.

•  Moonstone

Sitting northwest of the Abhayagiri Dagoba, this ruined 9th-century residential
complex for monks is notable for having the finest carved moonstone in Sri
Lanka; see how many species of animals you can find in its elaborate carvings.
This is a peaceful wooded area full of butterflies, and makes a good place to stop
and cool off during a tour of the ruins (there are drink and snack stands close by).
Look for the fine steps held up by jovial gana (dwarfs).
It forms part of a structure often mistakenly described as Mahasena’s Palace or
the Queen’s Pavilion.

•  Tissa Wewa

The 160-hectare Tissa Wewa is the southern tank in the old city. The dirt road
around the lake makes for a nice bike ride. It’s easily accessed from the behind
the Isurumuniya Vihara or Royal Pleasure Gardens.

• Jeavanarama Museum

iA1937 British colonial building provides a suitably regal venue for some of the
treasures found at Jetavanarama. The objects displayed here range from the
sublime (finely carved ivory finials) to the ridiculous (ancient toilet pipes).
Highlights include the elaborately carved urinal in Room 1 and the tiny 8mmlong gold decoration featuring eight exquisite flowers in Room 2.
A series of interesting B&W photos show the site’s dagobas covered in jungle
when they were first rediscovered. The monastery ruins just outside the
museum building include a photogenic water tank and several raised platforms.