Dambulla’s famed rock cave temple is an iconic Sri Lankan image – you’ll be
familiar with its spectacular Buddha-filled interior long before you arrive in
town. Despite its slightly commercial air, this remains an important holy place
and should not be missed.
The town of Dambulla is congested with heavy traffic heading for one of Sri
Lanka’s biggest wholesale markets. Consider visiting the site as a day trip from
the more relaxing environs of Kandy or Sigiriya.

• Cave temples

The beautiful Royal Rock Temple complex sits about 160m above the road in the
southern part of Dambulla. Five separate caves contain about 150 absolutely
stunning Buddha statues and paintings, some of Sri Lanka’s most important and
evocative religious art. Buddha images were first created here over 2000 years
ago, and over the centuries subsequent kings added to and embellished the cave
art.
From the caves there are superb views over the surrounding countryside;
Sigiriya is clearly visible some 20km distant.
Dambulla is thought to have been a place of worship since the 1st century BC,
when King Valagamba (also known as Vattagamani Abhaya), driven out of
Anuradhapura, took refuge here. When he regained his throne, he had the
interior of the caves carved into magnificent rock temples. Further paintings
were made by later kings, including King Nissanka Malla, who had the caves’
interiors gilded, earning the place the name Ran Giri (Golden Rock).
This process of retouching original and creating new artwork continued into the
20th century. Remarkably, the overall impact is breathtakingly coherent.

• Cave I (Devaraja Viharaya)

The first cave, the Temple of the King of the Gods, has a 15m-long reclining
Buddha. Ananda, the Buddha’s loyal disciple, and other seated Buddhas are
depicted nearby. A statue of Vishnu is held in a small shrine within the cave, but
it’s usually closed.

• Cave II (Maharaja Viharaya)

The Temple of the Great King is arguably the most spectacular of the caves. It
measures 52m from east to west and 23m from the entrance to the back wall; the
highest point of the ceiling is 7m. This cave is named after the two statues of
kings it contains. There is a painted wooden statue of Valagamba on the left as
you enter, and another statue further inside of Nissanka Malla The cave’s main
Buddha statue, which appears to have once been covered in gold leaf, is situated
under a makara torana (archway decorated with dragons), with the right hand
raised in abhaya mudra (pose conveying protection). Hindu deities are also
represented. The vessel inside the cave collects water that constantly drips from
the ceiling of the temple – even during droughts – which is used for sacred
rituals.

• Cave III (Maha Alut Viharaya)

This cave, the New Great Temple, was said to have been converted from a
storeroom in the 18th century by King Kirti Sri Rajasinghe of Kandy, one of the
last Kandyan monarchs. It is also filled with Buddha statues, including a beautiful
reclining Buddha, and is separated from Cave II by only a masonry wall.

• Cave IV (Pachima Viharaya)

The relatively small Western Cave is not the most westerly cave – that position
belongs to Cave V. The central Buddha figure is seated under a makara
torana, with its hands in dhyana mudra (a meditative pose in which the hands
are cupped). The small dagoba in the centre was broken into by thieves who
believed that it contained jewellery belonging to Queen Somawathie.

• Cave V (Devana Alut Viharaya)

This newer cave was once used as a storehouse, but it’s now called the Second
New Temple. It features a reclining Buddha; Hindu deities, including Kataragama
(Murugan) and Vishnu, are also present.

• Dambulla Produce Market

Even if you’re not looking to buy a truckload of bananas, this huge wholesale
market south of the centre offers a fascinating look at the vast range of produce
grown in Sri Lanka. What you see being carted about with manic energy (be
careful and stay out of everybody’s way) will be sold in Colombo tomorrow.

• Golden Temple

At the foot of the cave temples hill stands this modern temple, a kitschy structure
and Buddhist museum completed in 2000 using Japanese donations. On top of
the cube-shaped building sits a golden Buddha image in the dhammachakka
mudra (wheel-turning pose) and a huge neon sign.

• Museum of Wall Paintings

The English-language displays here are a good primer on Sri Lankan wall art –
from cave paintings to 18th-century frescoes – but the poor reproductions fail to
inspire the enthusiasm the subject deserves. The building is 500m south of the
main caves’ parking area.