• Kumana National Park

This 357-sq-km park, once known as Yala East, is much less frequently visited
than its busy neighbour, Yala National Park. Consequently, it’s a far less zoo-like
experience and it never feels too crowded here, even during high season. Yes, the
density of animals is lower, but it’s not rare to spot a leopard, along with
elephants, crocodiles, turtles, white cobras, wild buffalo and tons of birds. About
a dozen bears live in the park, but they’re rarely seen. The park’s best-known feature is the 200-hectare Kumana bird reserve, an
ornithologically rich mangrove swamp 22km beyond Okanda. May to June is
nesting season. There have been sightings of Sri Lanka’s very rare black-necked
stork, but more commonly spotted, even outside the bird reserve, are Malabar
pied hornbills, green bee-eaters, blade-headed orioles and painted storks, among
others. Watchtowers provide a terrific perspective for viewers, and even a
newcomer to bird watching can expect to sight around 50 species of birds in an
outing. A pair of binoculars and a field guide to birds greatly enhances the
experience.

Tickets and other practicalities

Enter the park through the main gate near Okanda, 22km south-west of Arugam
Bay. Most people arrange a jeep and driver through guesthouses in Arugam Bay
(around Rs 10,000 per vehicle for a 3½-hour trip including park fees). These
leave before dawn to catch the dawn chorus or at 2pm to make the most of the
golden dusk. This is when the landscape is at its most photogenic and nocturnal
animals start to pace out from their daytime lairs. It’s possible to arrange a jeep from the park office, just inside the entrance. Entry
fees are complicated, but include a mandatory guide (who may not speak English
but is usually an expert spotter), and cover service and VAT. That said, a
discretionary tip for both guide and driver for good sighting is customary. All in
all, this DIY approach may be a slightly cheaper option, but in high season jeep
availability may not be guaranteed and in low season it does entail some waiting
around. There are some modest exhibits at the entrance to while away the time
or it’s possible to watch birds from the lagoon hide while a driver is summoned
from nearby Panama (about 30 minutes or so). Unless travelling on an all-fees-included tour, expect to pay around US$10/5 per
adult/child, Rs 250 for vehicle hire and a service charge per group of US$8, plus
overall VAT of 8%. We did say