Trincomalee (Trinco) sits on one of the world’s finest natural harbors. This
historic city is old almost beyond reckoning: it’s possibly the site of historic
Gokana in the Mahavamsa (Great Chronicle), and its Shiva temple the site of
Trikuta Hill in the Hindu text Vayu Purana. It makes a great stop over on the way
to the nearby beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli. Trincomalee’s superb deep-water port has made it the target for all manner of
attacks over the centuries: by the British takeover in 1795, the city had changed
colonial hands seven times. It’s easy to spend a day or more exploring the ins and
outs of the myriad waterfronts and the fort and its famous temple.

•  Kandasamy Kovil

This revered temple at the summit of a rocky outcrop is one of Sri
Lanka’s pancha ishwaram, five historical Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva and
established to protect the island from natural disaster. It houses
the lingam (Hindu phallic symbol) known as the Swayambhu Lingam. It’s an
ancient place of worship, but the current structure dates to 1952. Pilgrims from
across the nation flock here; its puja (prayers) at 6.30am, 11.30am and 4.30pm
are always well attended. The site is thought to have been a place of worship for at least two millennia. There was certainly a temple here by AD 300, which was later built up over the
years by everyone from the Cholas to the Jaffna Kingdom, until being destroyed
by the Portuguese. On one side of the temple compound is Swami Rock, a 130m-high cliff nicknamed
Lovers’ Leap. It’s associated with Francina van Reede, a Dutch woman who is
said to have jumped from here in the late 17th century. It’s also a famous spot for
spotting blue whales, especially from February to November. Note the odd cubic- shaped rocks below. You can park about 300m south of the temple. The walk is lined with vendors
selling offerings and gifts – bring socks for walking the hot pavement after you’ve
removed your shoes. A couple of simple cafes sell fresh lime juice and coconut
water that you can enjoy while taking in the sweeping views.

• Fort Frederick

Occupying the neck of a narrow peninsula, Fort Frederick has been a defensively
important site for centuries. A fortress was initially constructed here by the
Portuguese in 1623 and later rebuilt by the Dutch. The British took over in 1782
(look out for royal insignias crowning the tunnel-like gateway that pierces the
fort’s massively stout walls). The fortress is used today by the Sri Lankan military, but you’re able to explore
most of the fort by foot or car. Assorted cannons and artillery are dotted around the enclave, which also
contains a small number of spotted deer grazing under huge banyan trees. Among the colonnaded colonial-era buildings, the impressive Georgian-style
mansion (not open to visitors) is Wellesley House, named after a Duke of
Wellington. It dates from the late 1700s. There’s also a big standing Buddha
statue at the Gokana Temple, from where there are fine views of Trinco and the
coastline.

•  Seruwawila Rajamaha Viharaya

One of the holiest Buddhist monuments in Sri Lanka, founded in the 2nd century
BC, but only rediscovered, and reconstructed, in the 1920s. This stupa pokes
above the scrubby plains and was renovated in 2009. The tiny village here has
snack vendors. From the north, turn off the A15 just south of the 101km post, then follow a
partially paved road for 7.5km. From the south, turn off just south of the 89km
post and drive for 7km along mostly paved roads.

• Marble Beach

About 17km south of Trinco, there’s a turn-off on the left for Marble Beach
(signposted just before the Kinniya bridge), a glorious cove bookended by
wooded headlands. Run by the air force, there is a resort at the north end of the
cove. But spend your time at the south end in the perfect water, enjoying the
emerald and blue views and the sight of the odd passing freighter. Note that on
weekdays, it can get overrun by school groups.

• Dutch Bay Beach

Right in the centre of Trinco is the attractive and picturesque Dutch Bay. Swimming is possible despite sometimes dangerous undertows. However, it’s
more a place for strolling with an ice cream from the many vendors.

• Manayaweli Cove

Manayaweli Cove is an appealing curl of fishing beach with clean sand where you
can also swim in the clear water; reach it by strolling past Manayaweli Pond, aka
Dhoby Tank.

• Maritime & Naval History Museum

Agrand 18th-century Dutch colonial building has been renovated and turned into
a museum. Displays on the ground floor cover Sri Lankan naval history back to
Marco Polo’s time. Upstairs there’s a lot of useful info on the flora and fauna of
the east coast, especially that of Pigeon Island. Wide porches are fine places to
pause and take in the views.